Kids Can Learn Laundry Chores at Any Age

There's no getting around it - laundry happens. It is a boring fact of life, and something that every child should learn as a part of growing up, getting older and becoming an independent adult. In our busy lives, it seems as if there is not enough time to impart these skills to our youth, but hey, we are all busy, Moms, Dads and Kids alike……and we all wear clothes, use towels, etc. and the busier we get the quicker those molehills turn into mountains!

Like myself, most Moms find that instead of trying teach our child how to do the wash, it is simply quicker to just do the laundry in a spare moment, which is usually when the kids are out doing something else, or sleeping. By trying to keep peace and harmony, we (and the guilty mom writing this) are doing a disservice to them, and especially to those teens who will be off to college in the blink of an eye without a clue when it comes to basic daily (real life) chores.

Kids can be, and should be taught at an early age the basic task of sorting laundry, and as they get older how to wash and dry their clothes. If you start them young, take baby steps, and find ways to make it fun, they won’t even realize that you have taught them a valuable skill they will use all of their lives!

Here are some suggestions of laundry jobs your child can probably do at certain ages. I started doing laundry on my own at 12. Every child is different and will catch-on at their own pace, so only you can be the judge of when they are capable of finally taking on 100% of the laundry. Heck, there are full grown adults who still don’t get it right!

Ages 2-4:

This might seem crazy, but at this age kids love to help. Yes, it will require more time and a lot more patience on your part, but planting the seed early will reap many rewards. Focus on the positive and pour on the praise for their efforts! Try jobs like sorting colors - whites, darks, colors, towels etc. Have them help you put items into the washing machine. When folding laundry, give them a washcloth to fold, or try pairing socks.

Ages 5 -7:

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At this age you can probably start to show hem how to work the settings on the washer, which way to turn the knobs and push the start button. Learning to fold their clothes, and other items is definitely something they can do, although don’t expect perfection. Tools like MiracleFold® Junior Size Laundry Folder Clothes Folder T-Shirts Pants Towels Organizer Fast Easy and Fun Time Saver (Sky Blue) can even make it fun. Kids can also help transfer laundry from washer to the dryer, add dryer sheets, and most all kids love cleaning out the lint trap!

Ages 8 - 10:

Show them how to sort in detail, like reading care labels to see what needs hand washing and which items shouldn’t go in the dryer. This might also be a good time to have the “is it really dirty?” discussion, if you haven’t already. Checking pockets for forgotten items and showing them how to turn printed t-shirts and jeans inside out, will show them how to help preserve their clothes (and your washer). Teach how much to load in the washer for effective cleaning. Show how you measure detergent, along with how and when to set the washer for hot, warm or cold water. If you hang clothes to dry, and they can reach, then go for it. They can also probably start to effectively organize their drawers and put away clothes.

Ages 11-12:

More detailed responsibilites can be taught, for example how to pre-treat stains, and when to use bleach or fabric softener (if used in your household) and how much to use. Then before you let them go off and running on their own, supervise (without hovering) for some “solo” loads. If you have a front loading washer, show them how to care for the machine after they have finished - checking the drain trap or seal for any debris, wiping down the rubber gasket and leaving the door open to dry.

How to Make Your Water Heater More Efficient

Not quite ready to make the switch to a tankless water heater?

If your conventional water heater is less than ten years old and still working fine, and if you would rather wait until you actually need a new water heater to make the switch to a tankless hot water heater, you are probably like most people. If it ain't broke, why fix it?

Here are some quick and easy things you can do to reduce the energy use of your current, old fashioned hot water tank and save a few bucks:

1. Consider lowering the thermostat on your water heater to 120 degrees Fahrenheit – most are set much higher than necessary by default. Too high a setting can also be a dangerous thing, especially for families with small children.

2. Drain about one quart of water from your hot water tank every three months or so, to remove any sediment on the bottom of the tank. Sediment prevents heat transfer and lowers the efficiency of the unit.

3. Insulate the water heater and hot water pipes with special insulation available at home improvement stores – there are even kits available for a better fit.

4. Install a timer on an electric water heater that can turn the hot water off and on at preset times, saving electricity on “down times.”

5. Have a heat trap installed above the water heater. A heat trap is made up of a basic pipe arrangement, which prevents hot water from rising up the pipes, thereby helping to eliminate standby losses.

6. Turn the water heater off or to the "vacation" setting when you will be gone for more than a few weeks. Important: Learn the proper way to do this for your water heater and heating method (gas/electric).

The Power of Borax

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Before it became the "green" thing to do I used Borax for everything from disinfecting diaper pails to controlling bugs. While being environmentally friendly, borax handled a multitude of laundry, cleaning and sanitizing jobs around the house. Depending on the cleaning job, borax could be used along with other natural products that were already on hand, such as vinegar, baking soda or lemon juice. There was no need to have a cabinet filled with the latest expensive cleaning products – just a box of borax.

So, what is Borax?

Borax, which is also known as sodium borate (or sodium pyroborate, sodium tetraborate decahydrate and a few other terms), is a natural mineral compound that was discovered over 4000 years ago. It is found deep underground in the Western United States as well as in China. It is used widely for commercial purposes, however it is best known in most households for its cleaning power. Borax is odorless, not flammable and can be safely mixed with most other cleaning agents. Borax is not harmful to washing machines, plumbing or septic tanks and does not contain chlorine or phosphates.

The pH of borax is about 9.5 - the optimal pH range for a washing solution being 9 to 10.5, as the effectiveness of detergents is maximized at this level. The use of borax is an instrumental factor in maintaining pH levels, thereby boosting the effectiveness of detergents. For other uses such as disinfecting and pest control, the components of borax (boron, salt, and/or oxygen of boron) inhibit the metabolic processes of many organisms.

Is Borax safe?

Even though Borax is natural, you should not automatically assume that it is safer for you than other man-made products. Remember the old adage, “too much of a good thing can be bad.” Knowing that Borax is commonly used to kill ants, fleas and roaches would be another clue. In quantity, it is also toxic to people. Generally, Borax is safe as it has no toxic fumes and is environmentally-friendly, however it should be used properly and with common sense. Do not use borax around food and keep it out of reach from children or pets.

What else can Borax be used for?

Twenty Mule Team Borax is best known as a laundry booster, but it should not be limited to just cleaning your clothes. When you discover the many uses of borax, you will never want to be without a box. Following are a few of the many ways to use borax in your home.

Laundry Help – Add a ½ cup of Borax to every load of wash along with the recommended amount of your regular detergent. Front-loading washing machines and large capacity machines can take ¾ cup measure.

Hand Washables – Dissolve up to ¼ cup of borax in warm water, add a few tablespoons of detergent and soak items in the sink for about ten minutes or so. Rinse thoroughly in cool water and dry according to care label (usually hang or dry flat).

Stain Remover - Mix 1/4 cup borax with 2 cups water. Sponge on to stain and let dry, or pre-treat before washing. This is good for blood, chocolate, mud, coffee, mildew and urine stains.

Baby Diapers and Clothes – I always liked to get a jump start on diaper cleaning and disinfecting by presoaking flushed-out, soiled diapers in a diaper pail filled with hot water and a ½ cup of Borax for at least 30 minutes prior to washing. It will help to reduce odors and staining, along with making diapers more absorbent.  In the wash, use ½ cup of Borax and laundry detergent to clean bibs, diapers and bedding in hot water.

Flea Control – Sprinkle on carpet/flooring and let sit for a few hours, or overnight, before vacuuming. Remember to keep area clear of pets and children until borax is completely removed. If you have respiratory sensitivities, it may be wise to use a mask when you vacuum.

Deodorizing Garbage Disposals – Just sprinkle a few tablespoons down the drain and after 15 minutes or so, flush the drain with warm water. Actually, any drain that you feel may accumulate build-up and odors, can benefit from a little borax now and then. It can also be a great alternative to caustic drain cleaners. To unclog a drain you can try pouring a ½ cup of borax down the drain, followed by 2 cups of boiling water. After it sits for about 10 to 15 minutes, flush the drain with hot water. You may have to repeat the process a few times if it is a tough clog.

Clean and Deodorize Refrigerator – Dissolve one tablespoon of borax per quart of warm water and use it to wipe down the insides of the refrigerator.

Deodorizing Garbage Pails - Trash cans get smelly after a while, so soaking them with a mixture of hot water and a ½ cup borax can help to eliminate odors. After it has dried sprinkle in additional borax to help absorb future odors.

Sink and Bathtub Cleanser – Borax alone is a great non abrasive cleanser. When mixed with lemon juice into a paste, it can help to get rid of sink and bathtub rust stains. Works great on toilets too!

Get Rid of Mold and Mildew - Mix borax and warm water and use a spray bottle to spray on and wipe off. If you have areas that are prone to mold, wash down with borax and do not rinse. The borax residue will fight mold growth.

Carpet Stains - Mix borax and warm water into a paste and rub into carpet stains. I have never had any problem, but to be extra careful you may want to test an inconspicuous area for colorfastness.  After it has dried, vacuum the remaining powder. For wine stains and other liquid stains, dissolve a cup of Borax in a quart of warm water, leave for 30 minutes and sponge off. For smelly areas, dampen the area, sprinkle with Borax and vacuum when dried.

updated 7/2015.

Clothes Turning Grey?

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There are a number of reasons your clothing – especially whites – can turn gray, or look dingy. Depending on the cause, there are several solutions. Here is a quick guide to solve your graying problems:

Reasons your clothes may turn gray:

First, did you separate your colors? Maybe a dark piece snuck in with your whites? If not, the cause could be from any number of things, these being the most common....

Not using enough detergent.

Overloading the washer – Clothes need room to agitate and circulate the detergent, as well as rinse clean, packing the washer too full prohibits this, so your clothes will start to become dingy and gray.

Not washing in the correct temperature – Yes, using cold water is fine for most wash loads - especially if you are using a detergent made for cold water. As a matter of fact, for energy saving purposes, many people choose to do most of their laundry in cold water. Just remember that you should try to wash towels and washcloths in hot water, as well as other fabrics occasionally in the warmest temperature allowable by the fabric.

Hard Water – If you have it and use laundry soap, it can turn the water into a nasty gray scum, which gets on your clothes.

Iron - Does bleach turn your water yellow (and your clothes)? This is caused by too much iron in the water.

Solutions –

For starters, the most obvious solutions would be in loading your washer properly – not overloading.

Use the correct amount of detergent.

Wash your laundry in the warmest temperature recommended by the care labels.

If you are dealing with whites that can be laundered in hot water, then try doing that along with the correct amount of detergent and bleach. If you cannot use bleach, read the last two hints below.

If you suspect water hardness or other mineral problem, the test your water. Testing kits are inexpensive (ex. WaterSafe All-In-One Test Kit). Companies that sell water softening equipment will also test your water, but my cynical side says they may have an interest in the results, so I would tend to look for resources that do not have money to make off of the results.

Water Hardness – If you have hard water, always use laundry detergent instead of laundry soap.

To solve severe yellowing problems on your whites, try washing with a product called Summit Brands IO30N Super Iron Out All-Purpose Rust and Stain Remover, 30 Oz. . This has solved the ‘iron in the well water’ problem we had and were of course, unable to use bleach. Chances are if you have iron in your water, the laundry is not the only place you will notice its presence. Iron out can be used in other areas of your home too, such as the dishwasher and tubs.

The same company also makes a laundry additive called Wb30n 30Oz White Brite - Summit Brands (Iron Out), which is used along with your regular detergent to help remove yellowing and dinginess. It can be used on all washable white and colorfast fabrics. This product also removes transferred dye stains and color runs that happen – for instance, when your red sock gets in the same wash load with your whites. Do not use bleach or peroxide with either of these products.

Fabric Softener Stains

In this post I am talking about the commercially available Fabric softener that has been around for decades, and not the "green" or "eco-friendly" brands of recent. It reduces static-cling, reduces wrinkles, repels stains, and it leaves your clothing with a nice fresh fragrance. Hundreds of millions of dollars in sales has shown that it is a product many can't live without. The problem is, that the products are so laden with chemicals, conditioning agents, emulsifiers, dyes and fragrances, they have become more of an irritant to our bodies and the fabric that makes up our laundry today.

In fact, some manufacturer’s care labels specifically state that you should not use fabric softener when laundering their garments. Why? Because, when used on certain fabric blends, you could be left with unpleasant results such as oily looking spots or discoloration.

Do not use fabric softener on athletic wear. Why? Many manufacturers of nylon, spandex, or synthetic blend athletic wear, do not recommend the use of fabric softeners because of the film that is left on the garment. That stain blocking residue left by fabric softeners is something we would normally be grateful for, however it can interfere with the sweat-wicking, sweat absorption properties of the sports-wear fabrics - on a hot day, that could leave you downright uncomfortable.

Using these softeners on towels and other linens will affect their absorbency. A better alternative for everything would be to use an eco-friendly, or plant based fabric softener.

How to get rid of fabric softener stains if they happen is fairly simple. If it is a small stain, just re-wet the fabric and rub a bar of mild soap on the spot. Rinse and rewash. If you are dealing with a large fabric softener stain, a little more laundry help may be needed. Try pre-treating the stain with your favorite liquid detergent containing bleach alternative and then wash it again with more of the same detergent in the warmest water allowable according to the care label.

How to avoid staining in the first place? Do not overfill the washer with clothes - leave room for items to circulate. If you are really worried - dilute the fabric softener before adding it to the wash.

How to Remove Red Wine Stains

It never fails, where there is red wine, there are is always a white shirt begging for a splash. This has to be the most sought after solution when it comes to laundry help. Whether it is just a minor missed-sip, or a catastrophic bump at a crowded party....a red wine stain can be eliminated completely. The key to successful stain removal is in the speed at which you tackle the spill!

Depending on the location of the stain, there are various methods of removing red wine stains. Something as simple as boiling water poured over the fabric (if the fabric can tolerate hot water), can literally wash the stain away. Of course you would not be wearing the item at the time.

First, if it is clothing, get it off and under the water (check care label) as quickly as possible. If not,  quickly blot up as much of the wine as possible with a towel, before attempting to remove any remaining stain. Most importantly, never allow the stain to dry completely before treating!

I read something a few years ago that said pouring white wine over a red wine spill would get rid of the stain, the theory being it would neutralize the stain. Honestly, I have never tried that one because it seems like an expensive route to take when there are plenty of other more economical alternatives. Blotting the stain with white vinegar for instance. Either way, it's not the best trick.

Depending on what you have on hand at the time, here are some other methods that may help get rid of that red wine stain:

If caught right away, plain old soda water has worked.

If the item is not washable, like "dry-clean only", the best bet is to have it professionally cleaned. If you feel like taking the risk, you could try blotting the spot with a sponge dampened with a mild detergent, such as Woolite. If there is a ring around the stain, try feathering the edge of the ring with a cloth dampened with a little Shout, or similar type solution.

Carefully applying a few drops of solution made up of one part ammonia or white vinegar, to two parts water, may help to lighten any remaining stain, then carefully flush with cold water. It can be extremely tricky working with non-washable fabrics.

Carpets - Resolve spray is something I have used a lot and it has worked great. Another carpet cleaner called Spot Shot, comes in a can, actually works on clothes too.

Tablecloths - Sprinkle small mound of salt over the stain right away, it will pull the wine out of the cloth and into the salt, then it can be brushed away! This is a great trick to try until you can take the tablecloth off the table to launder.

Shaving cream can work on wine stains, but be careful because it works just like bleach and could harm colored fabrics. The same goes for hydrogen peroxide - but as with any treatment - always check an inconspicuous area of the fabric first for adverse reaction!

<--- This is a product that removes red wine stains from many types of fabric and carpet without using bleach or phosphates.

Just remember, time is of the essence! The longer you wait to tackle that stain, the harder it will be to remove.

Still My Favorite Stain Remover

When it comes to laundry products, everyone has their favorites, for various reasons. Whether it is because of cleaning power, fragrance, or eco-friendliness - it all basically boils down to what works best for you and the type of laundry usually cleaned in your household.  If you have kids, pets, etc., then you will have an entirely different set of laundry rules than say, a working couple without children or pets. You get the idea. Living in a home with all of the above, it really helps to keep things simple and uncluttered, by using products that have multiple uses. This one has fit the bill in our household for many years.

OxiClean has been around for a number of years and to be honest, it was not the only stain remover in my cabinet. Over time though, I found myself reaching for the OxiClean more often for laundry help – many times to re-treat a stain that was still left behind after using something else. The most recent challenge? A port wine stain on a white shirt that mistakenly ended up in the dryer!

How does it work so well?  OxiClean is oxygen based and is activated when hot water is added. Hot water is the key, but if you want to use it on fabrics that do not tolerate hot water, just dissolve the powder in hot water and allow it to cool to the proper temperature before treating your item. Always remember to check your care labels for wash temperature!

The main ingredient in OxiClean is a solidified form of hydrogen peroxide, followed by a combination of detergents (a mystery to me). If you are thinking that you can save money by just buying peroxide and making your own stain remover, think again. Been there – done that – disaster. Peroxide is an effective stain remover, but if used incorrectly it can have the same damaging effect as bleach.

Originally, OxiClean’s white powder worked best on organic stains such as blood, coffee, tea, wine, food, mold, mildew, pet stains and urine.  Have you looked at OxiClean lately? There are blue crystals in that powder – a formula change which now helps to remove more types of stains, especially those dreaded greasy stains. Besides the laundry, OxiClean works great for removing stains and odors from a multitude of surfaces around the house – fabrics, plastics, porcelain, fiberglass, tile, grout, wood, carpeting and more. My dirty patio furniture and cushions came out looking great after scrubbing them with OxiClean!

Remember to read the instructions before using and if you are concerned about a reaction to any surface, always test an inconspicuous area before using.

I typically use it as a presoak for bad stains, but many people like to a ½ scoop to the wash load along with the detergent, particularly if it is especially dirty or smelly. Just remember that if you do this, you should not add bleach.

OxiClean is a very versatile product that is environmentally safe, biodegradable, non-toxic and safe for septic tanks. The cleaner has bleaching power, but without chlorine, which makes it safer for sensitive skin. There is even an OxiClean available to those with extremely sensitive skin that is free of dyes, fragrances and harsh detergents called.

How to Make Folding Laundry Less of a Chore

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While a few people actually find folding laundry and ironing therapeutic, most of us can’t stand the chore and will try anything to get out of it. In the past, I hated folding so much that I put everything on hangers as soon as it came out of the dryer – even towels. Because I like to hang many items to dry, or take them out while still damp to avoid over-drying, it seems to make sense and clothes don’t just sit there wrinkling while waiting to be folded.

While hanging everything may help to keep the wrinkles down to a minimum, unless you have enormous closet space you won’t get very far. It really does not have to be that bad. If you stick to hanging the items you wear most often, you will find that you fold a lot less. For example, towels that you use most often are usually hung on a rack or hook in the bathroom, so just hang them right back up there after washing.

Pants in our house are always hung in the closet. How many do you need anyway? It is a good idea to go through your closet and remove anything that you have not worn in a year. Store those items elsewhere, or better yet, donate them to a local charity.

If you elect to store some, fold by holding by the cuffs while making sure the crease (if any) is in the front. Smooth the legs and fold in half at the knees so that the cuff bottoms and waistline touches. Bring the knees to the top and smooth again. Space bags are wonderful for storing seasonal clothing in unused spaces like under the bed!


My hatred of folding evolved from years of working in retail, where I folded countless shirts by holding the shirt by the shoulders, flipping the sleeves back and folding the shirt in half and stacking, stacking, stacking. This was before the handy shirt folding boards were being used in stores.

Actually, there is a gadget called FlipFold which is fun to use and ensures that you have a stack of identically sized shirts when done – if that kind of thing floats your boat. It’s a great way to make the chore fun for kids and I think it’s much easier than the Japanese method.

As for underwear, keep it quick and simple. If you stick with the same brand and stick with one or two basic colors, you will have less mismatched items and easier choices at dressing time. I just lay socks flat on top of each other and fold in half once. It is quick and there is no chance of stretching out the elastic. Boxers get folded in thirds and then in half, panties in half. Bras get folded in half, one cup into the other. Individual drawers or bins for each category of underwear help speed and organization, if you have the space.

Fitted sheets are in my opinion, the worst (folding) nightmare! To show you the best way to fold a fitted sheet so that it looks nice in your linen closet and has less wrinkles – watching Martha Stewart's "How to Fold a Fitted Sheet" is easier than trying to read instructions.

The best way to make folding laundry less of a chore is to not let it build up. If you only do the wash one-day a week, then of course it will quickly become something to dread! Try spreading the loads through out the week, like doing sheets one day, towels another, whites one day, darks another, and so on, to lighten the workload.

Fold while you are watching TV, listening to music, or talking on the phone - enlist help from others at home. Avoid excess ironing by looking for fabrics marked "wrinkle-free" next time you are shopping. Store the ironing board and iron in or near your closet and just iron clothes as you need them.

Thinking of Switching to a Tankless Water Heater?

Traditional water heaters in American households, the round storage tank models, have been around for years and years. This has been slowly changing as the old tanks die out and homeowners try to find more eco-friendly, reliable and affordable ways to provide an unending supply of hot water to their families. I recently started shopping for a replacement for my 25 year old tank and put together some notes I though I'd share with you.

Solar hot water systems were (and still are) a very popular solution to powering water heaters. Having had one in a house years ago, I can say they saved a lot of money and it was a big plus to the buyers of our home when we sold. We are in a condo now, so that is not an option. with solar systems however, you still need to keep a holding tank, with about 40 to 80 gallons of water, supplied with a constant flow of energy, via the solar panels, to store the hot water. The problem with hot water tanks is that there is a significant amount of wasted energy when it is not being used. Also referred to as “standby heat loss” – it is the energy lost from having to keep the water in the holding tank hot until ready to use. The other problem is when the hot water runs out - you have to wait for the tank to refill and heat. Also, there's that big tank taking up valuable space in your home. Tankless hot water heaters solve both of those problems by heating water continuously, as needed – thus eliminating the need to keep a water tank hot, along with never running out of water.

The tankless method of heating water has been in use throughout Europe for many years, but it has only recently caught on in the United States. Also known as “instant water heaters,” “instantaneous,” or “on demand,” these water heaters do not use a tank. Instead, the water is heated when the hot-water tap is turned on and the water travels through a pipe, which runs through a heating element in the unit. This type of water heater might run on electric, gas, or propane, depending on the method of power used in the home.

As with any choice, there are benefits and always a few pitfalls that we don't find out sometimes until it is too late. So what are the benefits and pitfalls of switching to a tankless water heater? Basically two words - supply and cost.

Before you rush to buy a tankless heater, you need to understand their capabilities, so that you do not find yourself short of hot water. How could that happen? While the supply of hot water may be advertised as being "endless" tankless water heaters can only put out a certain volume of hot water at once, based on their size and flow rate.

Flow rate is the measure of water in gallons per minute (gpm) that the unit is capable of putting out. In order to determine the size and type of you need, the household size and estimated demands on appliances such as the dishwasher, washing machine and number of hot showers that might be taken while any or all of those appliances may be running. If you exceed the limits of any system’s flow rate, you will not have enough hot water.  In some cases, all you may need to do is to modify your washing schedule, so that you do not run too many appliances at one time. There are other solutions to the problem if modifying your routine is not an option. Installing a point-of-use water heater at certain locations would be one solution. That type of water heater is installed right at the water line supplying a particular appliance, the dishwasher for example, and it will only heat the water flowing directly into the machine. They are much less expensive than whole-house water heaters and appropriate where demand is at its greatest. Expense is another factor to consider.

The initial purchase is more expensive than conventional style hot water heaters, however the overall energy savings after a few years will make up for the cost in the long run. Points to consider – How large is your family? How long you plan to live in the home (a factor in calculating energy savings)? How much resale value will it add to the home? The more popular they become, the more people will be looking for them when shopping for a new home - it really depends on your individual location and trends. There has not been a lot of information published to date on what the actual return on investment (ROI) you would see, so at this point I would say that if you plan to stay in your house and it suits your family's needs, then make the choice that is best for you, and not in terms of selling.

Tips for Getting the Right Size Tankless Water Heater

Before shopping and talking to the professionals, it is a good idea to get a handle on your actual usage requirements so that they can pair your demands with the appropriate size unit.

When you try to calculate your most demanding hot water consumption period, start by listing how many hot water appliances or fixtures you may have operating at one time during a typical day. Then you will need to add up their flow rates – this will be your desired flow rate for a  tankless hot water heater. You will want to select the unit based on the maximum amount of hot water needed to meet your demand during peak use times. Following are some generalizations to help you get a ballpark estimate the amount of hot water you may use – depending on the type of fixtures and age of your appliances these figures can vary, but at least you have a ballpark figure to work around.

Faucets can use between one gallon (3.784 liters) and 2.5 gallons (9.46 liters) per minute.

For showers, figure in at least two gallons of water per shower. If you have installed low-flow showerheads then you can estimate just over one gallon to 2 gallons (7.57 liters) per minute. The old style shower heads can use anywhere from 2.5 gallons to 3.5 gallons (13.25 liters) per minute.

For a dishwasher or washing machine, count on about 2 gallons per minute. The other factor you will need to consider is the temperature rise needed. In order to do this, you will need to know the ground water or incoming water temperature. To calculate the rise needed, subtract that incoming water temperature from the desired hot water output temperature and the result will equal the rise. For example, say your incoming water temperature is 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 Celsius) and you want the incoming hot water to reach a temperature of 120 degrees Fahrenheit (49 Celsius). Subtracting those 50 degrees from 120, the result is 70 degrees, which is the temperature rise you need. This is another thing you will need to take into consideration one many people don’t even think about because your location and year round climate will figure in to the power to bring that temperature up.

This is not a do-it-yourself project! Proper installation and maintenance of your tankless hot water heater is necessary to gain optimal energy efficiency. Because of the various types of tankless water heaters (electric, natural gas and propane) available, knowledge local building code requirements and safety issues, installation of the unit is best left to qualified professionals.

It is important to do your research before hiring a qualified plumbing and heating contractor to install your tankless water heating system. Check out the company with your local Better Business Bureau first. Then ask the contractor for their estimate in writing and inquire as to whether they will obtain any necessary permits from the local municipality, if necessary. It wouldn’t hurt to ask for references from previous customers, however this is not necessarily a reliable as they will surely only give you references from happy customers. Be sure that the contractor is up to date on local building codes as well as water heater insulation codes. It would be a good idea for you to contact the building department of your city or town directly for code and permit information too. This way you will know the answer your potential contractor should be giving you ahead of time.

We were hoping it would be possible to free up some valuable space by getting rid of the hot water tank. Unfortunately, living in an old condominium where the only option is electric, the cost to bring the electric amp up, rewiring and changing some plumbing lines may outweigh the benefits in my case.

DIY Mason Jar Foaming Soap Dispenser The Quick and Dirty Way

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I love the look of the mason jar soap dispensers, but all of the DIY instructions I could find seemed so involved for such a simple looking project. Really, how many people own a drill press? Always looking for a simpler solution, I took a stab at trying to make one using as few tools as possible.

The quick and dirty way involves just a hammer, nail and utility scissors. Although there is a glue gun in the picture, it turned out to be unnecessary. Unless you plan to mass produce mason jar soap dispensers for everyone on your Christmas list, or to make a few bucks, this way works perfectly fine.

The pump came from an empty foaming hand soap container rescued from the recycling bin. The whole secret to foaming soap is in the pump, but if you don't want foaming soap, then it will not not matter what kind of soap pump you use. Some instructions call for you to cut the top part of the bottle so you will have something to screw the pump into, but I used it for cutting guide only, and then threw it back into the recycling bin.



What you need (glue gun optional - I decided against):

1. Cut the top section of the the plastic bottle that you got the pump from (just below the neck).










2. Center bottle piece on lid and draw a circle on the inside (this will make it a perfect fit).

3. Using the hammer and nail, make small holes on the circle line, right on top of each other so you are essentially cutting through the top. Make sure you are not doing this on a countertop or other fragile surface because the nail will cause damage when it pierces the lid.

4. Carefully remove the center - the edges are very sharp!

5. Insert pump through hole. This will be a tight fit, which is why glue is just an option. You may have to use the hammer and nail to make an adjustment or two.

6. Make your own foaming hand soap (it's very easy) and assemble the dispenser. You can use any soap you choose, even dish soap - just fill 1/3 full with soap of choice and the rest of the way with distilled water. Gently swish together to avoid bubbles and then put the top on the jar. Experiment with soaps to see what you like best.  I happen to like mixing Dr. Bronner's Fair Trade; Organic Castile Liquid Soap - (Peppermint, 32 oz) - and water - very refreshing!

Note: Some tutorials included painting the pump, however I chose to leave it plain, because there were many complaints about paint wearing off after repeated pumping.

Also, you could use the hot glue around the bottom edge of the dispenser if want to make sure that it will not leak if tipped over. I choose not to glue because it will be easier to pop it out and replace with a new one if the plastic pump fails over time.

Another thought is to maybe save spare lids to replace after a while because I'm thinking that since these lids are made of metal they may corrode - time will tell.

The Original Oxy-Clean – Using 3% Hydrogen Peroxide in the Laundry

Besides white vinegar and washing soda, 3% hydrogen peroxide is a“must-have” basic in your laundry supply cabinet. Like the first two, it is inexpensive, non-toxic and a great disinfectant.  In fact hydrogen peroxide is so versatile, it is a good idea to keep a bottle in your kitchen and bathroom cabinets too.

Hydrogen peroxide is basically a water-oxygen (x2) compound that is found in most living organisms exposed to oxygen. It is the foundation for products such as Oxiclean and the benzoyle peroxide found in acne products.

If unopened, a bottle of 3% hydrogen peroxide solution can last at least a year from purchase. Once you have opened the bottle, hydrogen peroxide will start losing its effectiveness after approximately 30 to 45 days.

Due to the oxidizing properties of hydrogen peroxide, it is often used as a bleaching agent, which is why care should be exercised when using it with bright colors and dark fabrics. So, even though it is safer to use than bleach you should treat it as though it were bleach when it comes to removing color from clothes. With that in mind, here are some great ideas for using 3% hydrogen peroxide in your laundry:

Blood stains – Pour straight peroxide on the spot and let it sit for a few minutes before washing. Remember that it may fade or “bleach out”anything other than white! Fresh stains should yield better results,where old set-in stains may be unsalvageable.

Brighten whites – Pour a cup of peroxide in the bleach or presoak compartment when washing a regular sized load of whites instead of bleach. If you do not have a washer with those features, then just add to the water when tub has filled and let it agitate for a few seconds to mix, before adding items to water.

Disinfect Cloth Diapers – Following the above instructions for brightening whites, you can effectively disinfect cloth diapers without the harshness of bleach. Remember not to overload the washer and rinse well.

Soap scum and mildew on shower curtains – Adding a cup of peroxide to the rinse cycle will help get rid of the built-up crud. Wash with a white towel or two, to balance the load.

To freshen smelly towels and washcloths – Presoak with ½ cup distilled white vinegar and ½ cup 3% hydrogen peroxide, then wash as usual.

Red Wine Stains – Apply equal parts of peroxide and liquid detergent to the stain and blot with clean cloth. Wash in warmest temperature allowed by care label. Same caution as blood stains in regard to colors.

Ring around the collar – Spray with equal parts peroxide and liquid laundry detergent and let set before washing.

Yellow Armpit Stains – Remove yellow under arm stains on white t-shirts by soaking the area in equal parts peroxide and water for 30 min, then rinse well and wash. Be realistic too – if the shirt has been badly stained for years, do not expect it to completely remove the stain.

Yellowed Lace curtains and tablecloths – Soak in a laundry tub with 2cups of hydrogen peroxide for minimum of one hour, rinse well in cold water and air dry away from direct sunlight.

Tips for Cleaning Leather Handbags

A quality leather handbag will last for years and years, just as long as you take care of it properly. Now, if you have treated yourself (or received as a gift) to an extremely expensive leather purse, then do not attempt to clean it yourself – the same goes for suede leather bags. Suede can be very difficult to clean and unless you want to take the chance of ruining it forever, do yourself a favor and leave it to the pros. That being said, we have some tips to help you get through a basic purse cleaning.

Start the cleaning process by emptying out the handbag, turning it over a trash can to shake out of all the loose crumbs, lint, etc. If there is any debris remaining inside, grab some of the sticky sheets off of a lint roller and dab it at the crumbs leftover on the inside.

For the outside, mix distilled water with a very small amount of liquid soap, just use enough to make suds when mixed - it really does not take much. Then dip a soft, lint-free, cloth or natural sponge (no dye) into the water and wring it until just damp. Wipe down the leather with the cloth and follow up by immediately drying the leather with another clean, dry cloth. Wiping should be done gently and in a circular motion.

There are commercial products available and a popular one used for cleaning saddles and riding gear is called Lexol. They make the leather cleaner in several different forms, sprays, liquids and wipes.

A good way to extend the life of any leather product is to use a leather conditioner and protector. They also come in different forms (sprays, creams) and formulas for different types of suede and leather.

If you plan to cover your leather handbag, or clothing when storing, make sure you use a breathable fabric like cotton and stay away from plastic. Also be sure to store it in a temperature controlled environment (cool and dry). Storing in heat or damp areas can lead to cracking and mold.

Cold Water Detergent vs. Regular Detergent

By now, most people know that washing clothes in cold water saves energy costs, and helps to keep colors from fading. Many people still are reluctant to wash 100% of their laundry solely in cold water for reasons varying from old habits, to concerns about unsatisfactory results. A few years back, detergent companies started marketing laundry detergent “specifically designed” for use in cold water. Does it make a difference?

First, a reminder that most of the energy used on a load of laundry comes from heating the water. Second, (a fact that may be new to you) there are many areas in the world outside the U.S. where washing machines only use cold water. Third, hot or warm water is the key ingredient in making some detergents work well.

So how do companies stay with the times, help the penny-pinching consumer and promote green cleaning products? That’s right, they come up with a “reformulated detergent” containing supposedly different enzymes and surfactants designed to work better in cold water.

In an attempt to find out the difference between cold water detergents and regular detergents, I went to the website of a leading producer, Tide. There you can access every variety of detergent they sell, along with a list of the ingredients, FAQs, and assorted information for each. In addition to the general list of ingredients for each product, they also offer a list of the ingredients in order of prominence, meaning whatever it contains the most is listed first and continues downward from that point.

What was the most prominent ingredient? No surprise, it was water, followed by a few surfactants, and processing aids to help keep the ingredients mixed together (avoids the clumping that those of us who make our own detergent are familiar with), borax, citric acid and assorted stain fighting chemicals.

When comparing the ingredients of the regular detergent and the cold-water detergent, I was surprised to find that they were basically the same, whether the list was by prominence or not. My original thinking was that there might be a greater quantity of a particular ingredient in the cold-water formula, than the regular formula, however there was nothing on the web site’s list of ingredients to support that theory. So unless there is a trade secret not mentioned, they are one in the same, just a different label. If anyone has something in writing to substantiate anything different, I would love to see it.

Personally, I have found that you can wash everything in cold water successfully, as long as you follow a few basic rules: Only use liquid detergent, as most powders need warm water to completely dissolve and clean successfully. Use the proper amount of detergent – too little and your wash load will not come clean, and too much will leave a soapy residue behind on your wash. Finally, do not overload the washer – leave room for items to move around in the water.

Top 10 Uses for Vinegar in Laundry

Distilled White Vinegar is probably one of the most versatile products most people have in their cabinets, yet overlook in favor of more expensive (heavily commercialized) products.

The original "multi-purpose" cleaner and remedy for so many household issues, we could literally list hundreds of uses for vinegar, but for this post we will stick to laundry solutions. Here are my top 10 uses for vinegar in laundry:

1. Make your own fabric softener using vinegar, or just add a cup to the rinse cycle. Trust me, your clothes will not come out smelling like vinegar! Your clothes will come out softer and static-free without smelling like perfume.

2. Set-in the bright colors on new clothing by running a rinse cycle with a cup of vinegar. This also helps to prevent color bleeding on to other items when washed in the future.

3. Clean the soapy residue out of your washing machine by pouring in 4 cups of vinegar and run a full cycle using hot water only (no soap or clothing). Sometimes I let it fill, then turn off the washer and let it sit for an hour, before completing the cycle.

4. Get rid of mineral deposits in your steam iron by filling the reservoir with white vinegar, and then turn it on the steam setting (iron sitting upright). After it has steamed for about 10 minutes, refill the reservoir with distilled water and steam for another 10 minutes or so. When done, refill and you should be good to go. Note: Distilled water is best for preventing mineral deposits.

5. Red wine stains, as well as mustard, ketchup, soda and blood stains can be removed from cotton and cotton blends by sponging the area with undiluted white vinegar, blot and repeat until the stain is lifted. Remember, time is of the essence and it works best if done within 24 hours.

6. Remove rust from cotton clothing by rubbing with undiluted vinegar and a little bit of salt before washing. This also works with scorch marks from your iron.

7. Remove deodorant stains from washable fabrics by rubbing with full-strength white vinegar before washing.

8. Get rid of ring-around-the-collar by scrubbing that shirt with a paste made from vinegar and baking soda. Let it sit for 20 to 30 minutes before washing.

9. Treat mildew stains on washable fabrics by soaking in full strength vinegar overnight before washing, and then dry in the sun.

10. Remove ink stains by soaking the area with distilled white vinegar and then rubbing in a paste made with vinegar and cornstarch. After the paste dries you can wash the item.

Odor Problems With Front-Loading Washers

Front-loading washers have become the top choice for most shoppers today for a number of reasons, the most popular being their energy-efficiency.

If you purchased a front-loading washing machine and started using it without reading the owner’s manual or my previous post,  you might soon be experiencing problems with odor.

Because of the design of these types of washers, they use a lot less water than a top loader, and when the wash cycle has completed, a small amount of water (along with detergent/fabric softener residue) is usually left behind. If the tub is not allowed to dry out completely, mold and mildew may start to form.

Mold can irritate eyes, lungs and nasal passages and complicate health problems such as asthma, so it is very important to eliminate bacteria that may be in your washer and to prevent it from returning.

Here are some tips to get rid of the washer's odor and keep it away:

If your front-load washer is still under warranty, contact the manufacturer for repair. If you were not instructed on how to care for it, or if there were not care instructions in the owner’s manual, you may want to push for a replacement.

Clean the most mold-prone areas such as the rubber gasket around the door (completely, especially underneath) and the drain pump and filter screen. It can be a little tricky to get to that filter screen so check the owner’s manual or assembly instructions. Many have found the culprit in this hidden area. Also, it may be necessary to replace the rubber gasket if it is too badly infected.

Run a cycle using a ½ cup of bleach (through the detergent dispenser and hot water (no clothes), or if your machine has a cleaning cycle then use it according to the directions.

Use a cleanser like Affresh High Efficiency Washer Cleaner (you may have do it 2 to 3 times if there is a significant problem.)

Wipe the inside of the door and seal dry and always leave the door open so that the tub dries out completely.

Only use HE (high efficiency) detergents, because they produce less suds, leaving less residue. They are easy to find – just look for the “HE” on the front of the bottle, most brands carry both kinds. The homemade detergent I use is also a low sudsing detergent.

Stay away from liquid fabric softeners, unless you are using something like Seventh Generation, or any plant/vinegar-based fabric softener. Dryer sheets are also your other option.

Even though it is more energy efficient to use cold water, try to use hot water on occasion (of course only on items that can take it). This will help to flush out any residue build-up.

What is the Difference Between Washing Soda and Baking Soda?

Washing Soda and Baking Soda are ingredients mentioned in my environmentally friendly detergent and fabric softener recipes. Washing Soda was used in the detergent and Baking Soda was used in the fabric softener. Both of the products are found at most grocery stores – the washing soda is usually sold by the laundry boosters (like Borax) and the baking soda is usually found in the same isle as the flour and other baking items.

Let’s start with the washing soda - If you read the box, it does not tell you exactly what it is made of, but it will tell you what it does. Basically, it claims to assist your regular detergent in getting out ground-in dirt and stains, along with cutting through greasy soils. It also claims to help neutralize and eliminate odors, not cover them up with perfumes.

Instructions say to add ½ cup of washing soda along with laundry detergent – liquid or powder - at the beginning of the wash cycle. And for tough stain removal it is recommended that you pre-soak the item for a minimum of 30 minutes, however overnight soaking is recommended.

So what’s in it? Baking Soda was my first guess – and that guess would be wrong. A little research found that washing soda is actually made of Sodium Carbonate Dechydrate, also referred to as “soda ash.” One of its main functions is to raise the pH of the water, which helps detergents to create suds more easily in hard water and do a better job cleaning and rinsing completely.

Washing soda’s ability to break down minerals in hard water is a reason why you can use it for cleaning toilets and descaling coffee pots, among other things.

Baking Soda is different in that it is made of Sodium Bicarbonate. Also known as bicarbonate of soda, it is most commonly used in baking and can also be used to neutralize the acidity in certain dishes (and our stomachs when used as an antacid). It has also been widely used to clean everything from your teeth to the kitchen sink.

Also, since many odors are caused by strong acids, and baking soda neutralizes those acids, you will find baking soda a key ingredient room and body deodorizers.

Should New Clothing Be Washed Before Wearing for the First Time?

Before wearing those new pair of jeans or the outfit you just bought, you may want to give them a wash. There are several reasons why prewashing your new items is a good idea. Many new clothes contain excessive dyes and chemicals, which can irritate skin, or transfer on to other surfaces – not to mention the germs and bacteria that have been featured in recent news stories.

In the past, I did not always wash everything brought home from the store before wearing it for the first time. After having the blue dye from a new pair of jeans rub off onto my hands, legs and a fabric sofa, I started pre-washing more often. Washing new, more intimate things like swimsuits and underwear, of course is a no-brainer.

By washing items before wearing them for the first time you are helping to eliminate excess dyes and chemicals that may have been added to the fabric to help them look better and resist mildew while shipping. If the clothing’s care tag suggests that you “wash the item separately” then this is a clue that there could be some excessive dye run-off. If you have sensitive skin, washing items before wearing is particularly important.

Another reason pre-washing is a good idea is that you do not actually know where that item has been before you bought it. Meaning, how many other people tried it on before you, and were those people clean, healthy and free of any transferrable bacteria? Just thinking about it might make you ill.

The same goes for linens – consider the recent bedbug dilemma. Not only are there dyes and chemicals to rinse out, you also have those little buggers to think about. The heat from washing and drying will take care of any worries about bringing them into your bed, as well as getting rid of any irritating dyes and chemicals like formaldehyde and bleaches.

Getting Rid of Gravy Stains

The top stain problem during the holiday season at our house aside from red wine is gravy. With all of the extra precautions, such as a drip tray under the gravy boat, there are always errant drops of gravy left behind on the tablecloth or your clothing.

If your tablecloth (or shirt) can be washed in warm water, then you will probably have no trouble removing the stain, as long as you do not wait to put it in the wash.

Because gravy contains fat and grease, you will need the help of a dishwashing liquid that breaks down these types of products. Dawn dishwashing detergent is a popular example.

You will need to work from the wrong side of the fabric, or underside, so that you continue to push the grease away from the fabric, instead of rubbing it into the fibers any further. Take a few drops of the dishwashing detergent and apply it to the back-side of the stain and rub it in gently. If you have a soft toothbrush, brush gently to work it in – otherwise your fingers will do fine.

While you are treating all of the gravy spots with the dishwashing detergent, start filling your washer with the warmest water allowable for the fabric (check care label). When it is about half way full, add the stained item along with a little bit of grease fighting detergent (like Simple Green or Tide) – and do not use fabric softener.

The stains should be completely gone when the wash is complete. Line-dry the item if you are not sure and if any stains remain, re-treat the areas with a grease fighting stain remover. Never put the tablecloth or clothing in the dryer unless you are sure that the stain is completely gone. Remember, as with any stain – time is of the essence - if you are quick to treat them, then you should have no problems getting rid of gravy stains completely.

Washing Reds Without Loosing Your Head

It may have happened to you (or someone you know) – a red-colored item happened to be mistakenly washed with a white load of laundry, and turned everything pink. There are different methods to remedy this type of mistake, varying from rewashing the whites with bleach, to using a dye-remover, however we want to prevent this from happening in the first place.

Sorting your laundry properly is the simplest way to avoid catastrophes. Take the time to go through each piece – don’t just grab a pile of colors or whites and toss them in the washer. Doing the wash in a rush like that will not only increase your chances of a misplaced item, but you will miss the opportunity to pre-treat stained or heavily soiled articles.

Red clothing is often over-dyed in order to produce the desired vibrant color, which is why this color tends to bleed most during the first few washes. Other colors like black and dark blue will bleed somewhat also, but not as much as red, and those bleeding incidents are not as noticeable because we tend to have more of those colors in our wardrobe, so they are usually sorted and washed together.

Divide and conquer! The best way to prevent accidents with reds is to do them separately, in a load of their own. Unless you have a lot of red items (the average person does not), this may not be a very economical solution. So, in order to help prevent the bleeding that occurs in newly purchased (washable) reds, you might want to run the item(s) through a cold-water rinse cycle, with a ¼ cup of vinegar before washing for the first time.

Although rinsing items in the vinegar-water solution will help to set the red dye, it is no guarantee that it will completely eliminate a problem for the first few washes. If you want to be absolutely certain that no other colors will be affected in the wash load, then your only choice would be to hand wash, or wash in the machine separately from other colors.

There is a product called Shout Color Catcher Dye that helps to prevent dye transfer during the wash. This comes in handy in the cases of red dye that could bleed onto other clothes or combination clothing like a red and white striped shirt.

Remember, to keep your reds and other bright colors looking their best, always wash and rinse in cold water using detergents and stain removers specifically designated for colors.

What You Should Know About Front-Loading Washers

Front-loading washing machines have become a hot commodity in recent years for several reasons, one of them being their looks. Attractive and available in an assortment of bold colors, who wouldn’t want one?

The only negatives seem to be their initial cost and their up-keep. Front-loaders can run up to $500 more than the traditional washers. Add more to that if you opt for a pedestal base.

As for the upkeep, they do require more maintenance than the old-style washing machines. This is something that most often goes overlooked for the average buyer until they have a problem. Why? Probably because the salesmen neglect to inform potential buyers of what will happen should they not take proper care of their new front-loading washer.

If you have never owned a front-loading washer, here is some information you should review about how to treat these types of machines.

On this style of washer, there can be residual moisture left after a wash cycle that can be a breeding ground for odors and mold if not attended to properly.

Front-loaders can have a tendency to build up residue on the rubber door gasket, and the soap/fabric softener reservoir. Most owner’s manuals just tell you to wipe the rubber with a clean cloth after you have finished, but a few extra steps will make more of a difference:

• Try to remember to leave the washer’s door and the detergent/fabric softener dispenser door open when you have finished the laundry for the day. This way, it can air out and the remaining water can evaporate.

• Stick with liquid HE detergents, as they will leave behind fewer residues. Also, try not to use fabric softener excessively – maybe opt for dryer sheets instead. Fabric softeners have been known to leave behind a greasy residue.

• If your washer has a cleaning cycle, be sure to follow the directions and run it as often as required. If not, be sure to occasionally run a hot wash with bleach every so often. There are also other retail products available that help keep your washer clean and smelling fresh.

• Never leave a wet washload in the washer overnight; remove it when the washing cycle is complete and leave the door open.

• Check the gasket just inside the door opening and remove any visible debris.

If you are not willing to take this extra care of your washer, then you should really consider the traditional top-loading washer. Additionally, if your household has small children, you should be aware that they might find a front-loading washer a place to play hide-and-seek, which of course is very dangerous.

Make Your Own Environmentally Friendly Detergent and Fabric Softener

This post contains affiliate links, meaning I will make a small commission from anything you buy.

These days, more people are looking for products that are better, safer and cheaper. We want it all to be better – from the food we eat, to the toys our children play with, right down to the detergents we use to clean our homes and laundry.

 For those earth conscious and health conscious consumers, products such as 2X Concentrated Laundry Liquid, Free+Clear 50 OuncesandSeventh Generation Fabric Softener, 32 Fluid Ounce (Pack of 2) Packaging May Vary have become stock items in most grocery stores, where they were previously only available in specialty stores. While they are not the cheapest solution, they are eco-friendly and family friendly.

 If you have a few extra minutes and want to save a bunch of money, you can make your own laundry products. I have made each of these and they work just as well (if not better) than their store-bought counterparts, in my front-loading, HE (high-efficiency) washer.

Homemade Laundry Detergents

Powdered –

1 bar of laundry soap, shaved/grated (I useFels Naptha Laundry Bar and Stain Remover, 5.5 Ounce) 1 cup of borax 1 cup of washing soda (I useMule Team Borax and Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda Variety Pack)

All of the above can be found at most grocery stores – just mix together and use 1 – 2 tablespoons per wash load (depending on size). Store in airtight container.

Liquid –

1 pint of boiling water
1 cup of grated laundry soap
1 cup of borax
1 cup of washing soda

Add the grated soap to the boiling water and mix until the soap is completely melted. Pour the soapy water into a large pot and add the borax and washing soda, stirring until dissolved. Add one gallon of water and stir. When cooled, you can transfer it into old liquid laundry detergent containers or any other sealed container. Use ¼ cup for each wash load. Remember to shake or stir the container before each use, as the mixture will gel when cooled.

Homemade Fabric Softener

Just adding a ¼ to ½ cup of white vinegar to the rinse cycle should give you nice results – and no, your laundry won’t come out smelling like vinegar!

Or you can make this:

1 cup baking soda
6 cups distilled white vinegar
8 cups water
5-10 drops essential oils (Optional)

Bucket for mixing

Reuse old fabric softener or detergent container (clean).

Mix baking soda and one cup of the water in bucket. Slowly add in the vinegar and when it stops fizzing, add the rest of the water. If you want a fragrance, use your favorite essential oil adding 5 to 10 drops (start with less, you can always add more later). Pour mixture into container, put on top and remember to shake before using.

Pour 1/4 cup to 1/2 cup in your fabric softener dispenser - or the at the beginning of the rinse cycle for machines without that feature.

If you are one of those people who often forget to add softener to the rinse cycle, you can make your own dryer sheet by putting just a little bit of your homemade fabric softener on an old washcloth or clean rag, and toss it in the dryer. Just dampen the cloth with a little - you don’t want it dripping on to your clothes.

Reduce Static Cling –

Roll up a ball of aluminum foil (about 2 to 3 inches in diameter) and toss it in the dryer to help reduce static cling. They last for months and can be recycled when you are done!  

Fabric Softeners and Your Septic Tank

This post contains an affiliate link near the end, meaning I will make a small commission from anything you buy.

A recent problem with our septic system led me to discover a thing or two about the products many of us use today. One would not normally expect to have problems with a septic system that is only five years old, but apparently in this situation the grease interceptor was blocked.

Since we do not use a lot of grease in our cooking, and certainly would not dump any down the drain, we started to look for other sources which could cause this problem. With three girls in the house, an obvious assumption would be the beauty products and lotions, some of which can contain a lot of oil/grease.

Next on the list of offenders is the fabric softener in the laundry room. I had no idea that liquid fabric softeners can harm septic systems! Our homebuilder never mentioned it, nor did the plumber, but a little research revealed that most liquid fabric softeners have the same effect as pouring bacon grease down the drain.

The major brands of liquid fabric softener are petroleum based – bad for your septic tank. There are a few brands like Seventh Generation Fabric Softener, Blue Eucalyptus and Lavender, 32 Fluid Ounce that are plant based and are relatively safe (in moderation) for septic. One very eco-friendly fabric softener is distilled white vinegar - and your clothes won't smell! Just add 1/4 cup where and when you would normally add liquid fabric softener. There is also a fabric softener recipe link on the home page, if you want to get fancy.

One thing the plumber mentioned that I was not aware of was that antibacterial products and disinfecting cleansers could destroy all of the “good bacteria” in the septic system. Take a minute to think about all of the antibacterial products and cleaners used today – bar soaps, facial cleansers, liquid soap, dishwashing detergent, tub and tile cleaners, toilet bowl cleaners, drain cleaners as well as your laundry bleach.

Even though products may be labeled as safe for septic systems, they can have a detrimental effect when used in excess. Let’s say you use some of these products, and you also do 3 to 5 loads of laundry per week using bleach – this could lead to septic system failure.

Becoming more label conscious and making changes in the products used in your home will help to avoid problems in the future. Luckily, our plumbing problem was caught early, saving us a lot of money.

Affresh Washer Cleaner Kit Review

The opinions in this post are my own. I purchased and used this product myself, however the post contains an affiliate link, meaning I will make a small commission from anything you buy.

We’ve had our Whirlpool Duet Front-Loading Automatic Washer for about 4 ½ years now and we have been very happy with it. This past year though, it has started to smell a little like mildew. Checking the Use and Care Guide, all it recommended for washer care was to wipe it down with a soft damp cloth. For the door seal, it said to use a soft damp cloth or sponge when necessary and to check the fold for foreign objects. Not much help.

I had tried running a cycle with hot water and bleach to freshen it up, leaving the door open to let it dry out, and cleaned the rubber door seal using Clorox Disinfecting Wipes – but the smell wouldn’t go away. The odor didn’t transfer to my laundry, but still the smell could only mean build-up somewhere – and a potential repair bill down the road.

So, when I received a mailer advertisement for the Affresh High Efficiency Washer Cleaner, I decided to give it a try.  Affresh is environmentally friendly and safe on septic tanks.

The product claims to remove the detergent residue that bleach cannot, thus removing the source of breeding grounds for odor-causing bacteria.

One tablet is placed in the washer by itself – no clothes – and run on the Normal Cycle with hot water, or the Clean Washer Cycle (if you have that). The slow-dissolve, foaming tablet makes quite a racket for the first few minutes, sounding like a hockey puck in the drum.

The first time you use the product, it is recommended that you run three consecutive wash cycles in hot water, using up all three pucks. I thought that might be excessive, but it really took all three cycles until my washer looked and smelled relatively fresh again.

After the first cycle I started to worry because it seemed to smell worse! It was probably due to lifting some of the soap scum and disturbing the years of gunk. I opened the door and used a wet cloth to wipe down the rubber gasket around the door, and ended up using several cloths to remove all of the black dirt I never realized was there! The second cycle was a major improvement from the first go-round, and only one wipe-down cloth was needed.

It wasn’t until after the third and final cycle, that I could actually see and smell the improvement. One last pass with a clean wet cloth and a once over with a dry towel, I left the door wide-open overnight to dry everything out thoroughly.

The result? A great improvement overall – not 100%, but if I known about the proper maintenance and quirks of a front loader when I bought it new, it probably would not have gotten so out of control.

So, if you have a High Efficiency washer, I think this would be a good product to use in order to prevent build-up. So if your machine still fairly new and you would like to keep it looking and smelling like new, this may be an easy way to do the job.

Shark Steam Mop Review

Ok, so this review of the Shark Steam Mop is a little off the laundry topic. Since I had been researching this product for a few months and found very few opinions from people who actually used this mop in real life – I decided that if I actually broke down and bought it, I would offer my tried and tested review.

So I broke down and bought the Euro-Pro Shark Steam Mop Model S3101CO about a week ago. It came with 5 Micro-Fiber Cleaning Pads, a funnel and narrow cup to pour the water into the reservoir. Assembly was easy, just three pieces to snap together. It is very light, just 3 pounds and is backed by a one-year limited warranty.

Note – The box states in several places that you just use “ordinary tap water” however the instruction booklet suggests that you use distilled water. From personal experience with clothing steamers and steam irons – use distilled water. Using distilled water helps to prevent mineral build-up and scale that you get with tap water and gives you more life out of your steam appliances.

The Shark heats quickly and generates steam within 30 seconds, no kidding. The pumping motion of the mop releases the steam as you push forward. The 20-foot power cord is plenty long and wraps up neatly against the handle when done.

This mop can certainly be considered an eco-friendly mop, as it uses no toxic or messy chemicals to clean. Also, the mop pads are machine washable – they wash well, but I wouldn’t put them in the dryer – just hang or dry flat.

Another note though – if your floor is heavily soiled or has sticky or messy spills, use some common sense and clean those spots first the usual way. This mop is good, but it is not a miracle worker. It is also a good idea to vacuum first in order to pick up extra debris you wouldn’t want caught up in the mop pad. You should also carry along a cloth to pick up any hair or dust that the mop pushes out in front of it.

The water reservoir is small, holding just slightly over one cup of water, so you might expect to refill it often while mopping – not the case. I only had to refill it once while cleaning three large rooms and a hallway.

My mission in purchasing this mop was to finally find something that cleaned our sealed hardwood flooring without leaving streaks and without leaving wood-damaging water sitting too long on the surface. Mission accomplished! The Shark Steam Mop took away the streaks left by my previous mopping job and dried almost instantly. It was unbelievable! Touching the pad after finishing, I had expected it to be soaking wet or dripping, but it was just moist – very surprising.

I also used it on white bathroom ceramic tile and a slippery-slick tiled kitchen – both turned out perfectly and dried immediately, eliminating the chance of a slip or fall on the tile floor. The floors all felt extremely clean (and I’d like to add sanitized, however I am not sure what the requirements for that claim would be) and there was no sticky residue. It did not seem to work as well though on uneven surfaces like the textured tile in one of my bathrooms.

All in all it did an admirable job of cleaning in a short amount of time and I am glad I bought it – I will surely use it often!

(I purchased this product myself, and the above opinion is my own.)

Energy Star Washers - Are They Really Better?

Every year we wash hundreds of loads of laundry. That’s why, when it comes time to purchase a new washer, more and more families are looking for brands with the Energy Star label, which can help to cut their energy costs by a third and their water costs by more than half.

Is your washer ten years old or more?

Consider this – technological improvements seen in appliances over the years have made them so much more efficient that you could save enough money in operating costs to pay for the matching dryer - and with the water savings, you could fill multiple swimming pools.

When you read the Energy Star stickers on washing machines, think over the long haul – or at least the next few years – that’s where you will probably see the savings.

This is something to keep in mind when comparing prices of new washers, because the least expensive model in the store may end up costing you more in the long run, if it is not a more efficient, Energy Star model.

Energy Star Facts:

* Energy Star qualified clothes washers use less water. If you buy a non-qualified washing machine, you will use approximately 18 more gallons of water every time you do a load of wash.

* Energy Star washers spin the clothes better, squeezing out more water, which results in less drying time.

* Energy Star does not label clothes dryers since virtually all of them use the same amount of energy.

* Energy Star qualified washers must display the Energy Guide labels. These are the yellow stickers on appliances that estimate how much energy the appliance uses and **approximates the annual operating costs of the unit.

**Costs vary depending on your source of energy and/or utility rates.

DIY Dryer Vent Cleaning System

I purchased this product myself, and the opinion is my own, however this post contains an affiliate link, meaning I will make a small commission from anything you buy. 

Is it taking longer and longer to dry a load of clothes? The problem may not be your dryer. So before you rush to call an expensive repairman, you may want to take a few minutes to check out your dryer’s vent and the vent leading from your dryer to the outside of your home.

If you happen to have a vertical dryer vent with duct work that goes through your roof, lint blockage will most definitely be the culprit. Many newer homes with interior laundry rooms suffer from this design flaw, which can be dangerous if not maintained on a regular basis.


Whether your dryer vents horizontally, vertically, or makes a few twists and turns, the Lint Eater device should work just fine.

From personal experience, calling a dryer vent cleaning company can be costly ($100+ per trip). I consider myself pretty handy, so I decided to give this Lint Eater Dryer Vent Cleaning System a try.

It is reasonably priced, at about $30 for the basic kit, and since it is something that can be used over and over again, I consider it to be a wise purchase.  In my case, the purchase of the extension kit was necessary because the vent extends way beyond the 12 feet of length provided by the basic kit.

The kit comes complete with flexible rods that connect end-to-end until you reach your desired length, an auger tool, a brush tool, a vacuum attachment, easy to follow cleaning instructions and a DVD that includes a demonstration on how the vent cleaning system can be used. Although I feel that it is overkill, they claim that you can attach your cordless drill for extra cleaning power.

Set up was easy. I was a little skeptical that the rods would stay together because they were so bendy and flexible, but there was no problem. Feeding it through the venting and pulling it back down, easily dislodged years of lint build up - yuck.  Actually, the first time I tested this out, I had someone else handy to go on the roof just to check the vent from the other end.

The Woodeze 5GA-RLE202 LintEater Rotary Dryer Vent Cleaning did a great job of removing years of lint build-up! It quickly cleaned all of the lint out of the exhaust vent, filling a kitchen-sized (13 gallon) garbage bag – no kidding!

The worst part of the entire process was attaching that darn accordion style aluminum duct hose back on the dryer! My dryer now dries a load of laundry in ¼ of the amount of time it took before cleaning the vent.

Update: After the initial cleaning job, I continued to check and clean the vent every six months and can say that this vent cleaning system worked perfectly.